Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it joins a international community of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its profound gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always shaped its heart: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of culinary innovations, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children do not want to master the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
